Sole Mate

Finding the perfect rollerskate can sometimes lead one to wonder what the hell makes one skate better than any other.  Or why most rollerskaters tend to gravitate towards a certain boot or wheel.  I get a ton of emails from folks searching for the answers to their skate search questions and so I thought I would share some pointers to those who might be contemplating buying rollerskates themselves.  The most common misconception people have is that their only choice is to buy the skates that are pre-configured at the skate shop or roller rink.  Not true.  My first piece of advice to anyone is to not go this route.  First, go try on a basic Riedell skate boot to get your skate size, and then research your best price options on the internet.  

Once you know your skate size, you can begin to build your skate from the most fitting of the below four components. 

BOOT 

Skate boots can vary widely in price-- from a lowkey $60 suede "outdoor" boot to a ridiculously rock solid $500 leather competitive boot.  I witness a lot of novice skaters drop entirely way too much money on an ultra slick Riedell competitive boot, only to develop oozing blisters and a deep disdain for skating because they bought a boot intended for triple axles.  Not necessary.  Keep in mind that your first boot should allow movement and comfort.  You're going to have to skate for years to wear out your first pair, so choose something comfortable and light-- the more expensive a boot is, the heavier its weight, typically.   For the more adventurous and style conscious types, there is always the option of finding a cool pair of high top sneakers to create a custom skate from.  Custom skates can be created from everything from dress spats to cowboy boots-- though I would not recommend either of these straight out the gates.  Creating a custom skate will not cost you any more than mounting the individual components around any other boot.  But taking it to the right person to mount is critical.  

WHEELS 

Perhaps the most important consideration in determining the perfect rollerskate is one's choice of wheels.  There is a fairly broad spectrum of wheels to choose from (measured in mm as well as hardness "A"), but the most important considerations are: how fast do you want to skate and what surface will you typically be skating on.  The gold standard for indoor rollerskaters are Bones Elites-- which offer the perfect wheel surface for supreme speed, but will set you back about $90 (8 wheels).  However,  with normal rotation, Bones will last the average skater 10 or more years due to their hardness (103A).    

If you plan to do a lot of outdoor recreational skating, a skateboard wheel is the optimal choice.  Why?  Because a softer wheel absorbs the shock of skating on pavement.  Try rollerskating down a Venice street in Bones and you will quickly appreciate the shock absorption of a softer wheel.  Being a devoted bike path skater, I roll on vintage Sims Snakes, a circa 1978 skateboard wheel which is highly resilient on outdoor surfaces and the perfect freestyle wheel.  A contemporary equivalent would be a set of Kryptonics (78A-92A), which will offer a smooth ride on rough and cracked surfaces-- a must for outdoor skaters who want to brave the city streets as easily as the bike path or sidewalk.  

BEARINGS

Along with the right set of wheels, one should never underestimate the power of a solid set of bearings.  I won't recommend anything but Bones, so I will offer up selections from the most reasonable (but still excellent) to the most ridiculous bearings the vast majority of novice through professional skaters use.

Bones Reds -- a perfectly good set of reasonably priced bearings.  Don't bother looking for more affordable bearings.  These are the baseline. Price $29 (set of 16)

Bones Super Reds -- some slight advantages over the plain ol' Reds... mostly to be seen in overall longevity.  Price $49 (set of 16)

Bones Swiss -- these are the standard for most serious rollerskaters.  Until you can appreciate the differences, opt for the more affordable version. Price $85 (set of 16)

Bones Ceramics -- these bearings boast silicon nitride balls rather than chromium steel.  I recommend investing in these bearings for a pair of indoor only rollerskates.  The elements of water, sand and cement would 

wreak havoc on a set of these; but a pristine set on an indoor wood floor 

would be divine! Price $199 (set of 16)

PLATES

It isn't until one is spinning or skating on extreme edges that the type of plate begins to make a major difference in skating ability.  I happily rolled on a basic nylon plastic plate made by Sure Grip for about five years until I found a pair of Snyder Imperial aluminum plates that had a 45 degree angle with adjustable pivot pins.  What?  Exactly.  The setback with this transition was that I went from a virtually zero weight plate that allowed for effortless kicks and no gravitational pull to a skate that was much heavier-- and impacted jumps and kicks tremendously (a.k.a., hip joint pain).  The payoff of the switch was in suddenly being able to position myself (leaning, balancing, etc.) in ways I never had before.  Skating backwards while doing a full leg extension and leaning at a 20 degree angle.... that is something that was possible, but not easy to maintain gracefully on a nylon plate.  The construction of an aluminum plate guarantees a smoother, stronger skate on the bike path too (aluminum trucks make for a much longer stride).  Whatever your choice, the important thing to keep in mind is: should you choose to not start out with a high end plate, there are advantages to introducing one later on, when you can appreciate the differences.  If you begin with one, you will feel a heavier skate beneath, but no real difference with mechanics until you are at a semi-advanced level.  NOTE: skate plates can run smaller than skate boots so make sure to ask before purchasing.    

MOUNTING 

Assuming you acquire your rollerskate components at one or more websites or skate shops and have a pile of disparate parts, you could be asking "What's next?"  Answer: Finding someone who can mount the boot to the plate.  My strong advice is to ask fellow rollerskaters who they take their skates to for mounting and repairs.  If you can't find a reliable local source,throw your skate parts in a box and mail to Richard Humphrey, who is an expert at mounting shoes, boots and skates to plates.   

INSOLES

Once you get your skates home, do yourself a favor and take out those flimsy paper thin insoles that come with the skate and treat yourself to a pair of $20 insoles purchased at a running shoe store.  I promise that the right insoles can make even the most modest of skates ride like heaven.   

If this all sounds like a whole lot of work, go ahead and opt for the shelf model and swap out the wheels and bearings to high end indoor or outdoor styles (basic skate models usually opt for the lowest end wheel and bearing options).  But keep in mind that a pair of rollerskates can last you a lifetime; if you compare a $200 purchase to the expenses associated with other recreational activities like cycling, snowboarding or golf, the investment seems almost trivial.